Colombia has undergone a remarkable transformation. The country that was once associated with danger is now one of the fastest-growing tourist destinations in the Americas. The people are incredibly warm, the food is delicious, and your money goes far.
Is Colombia Safe?
Yes, for tourists in the main cities and tourist areas. Use the same common sense you would in any major city: avoid flashing expensive jewelry, don’t walk alone at night in unfamiliar areas, and use registered taxis or apps (Uber works, though it’s technically in a gray area – InDrive is the local alternative).
Days 1-3: Bogotá
The cool, high-altitude capital (2,640m). Bring a jacket – it’s not the tropical heat you might expect.
- La Candelaria: The historic center. Graffiti tours are famous here (and free, just tip).
- Monserrate: Take the cable car up the mountain for panoramic views of the sprawling city.
- Gold Museum (Museo del Oro): One of the most important museums in South America. Free on Sundays.
- Food: Try ajiaco (chicken and potato soup) and empanadas from street vendors (1,000-2,000 COP = €0.25).
Days 4-7: Medellín
The “City of Eternal Spring”. Perfect weather year-round (22-28°C). It has completely reinvented itself from its dark past.
- Comuna 13: Once the most dangerous neighbourhood, now an open-air gallery of street art, escalators, and hip-hop. Take a guided tour.
- El Poblado: The main tourist area. Restaurants, rooftop bars, and hostels.
- Guatapé: Day trip. Climb the 740 steps of “La Piedra” (the rock) for jaw-dropping views of lakes and islands.
- Nightlife: Medellín has incredible salsa clubs. Even if you can’t dance, go. Locals will teach you.
Days 8-9: The Coffee Region (Eje Cafetero)
- Salento: A colorful colonial town surrounded by coffee farms.
- Valle de Cocora: Hike through the world’s tallest palm trees (60m). They look surreal, like something from a Dr. Seuss book.
- Coffee Farm Tour: Learn the entire process from bean to cup. Tours cost ~15,000 COP (€3.50).
Days 10-14: Cartagena
The Caribbean jewel. Colorful colonial buildings, bougainvillea, and a vibrant nightlife scene.
- Old Walled City: Walk the cobblestone streets through bright yellow and blue buildings.
- Getsemaní: The “cool” neighborhood. Street art, local bars, and affordable restaurants.
- Islas del Rosario: Day trip to white-sand islands with crystal blue water.
- Eat: Ceviche, fried fish, and arepa de huevo (egg-stuffed corn cake) from street vendors.
Budget Breakdown
- Hostel Dorm: $8 - $15.
- Local Meal: $2 - $5.
- Domestic Flights: $30 - $80 (VivaAir, Wingo).
- Daily Budget: $35 - $50 is very comfortable.
Essential Spanish Phrases
English is not widely spoken outside tourist zones. Learn a few basics:
- “¿Cuánto cuesta?” – How much does it cost?
- “La cuenta, por favor” – The bill, please.
- “¡Qué chimba!” – Colombian slang for “That’s awesome!” (Use this and locals will love you.)
Colombian Food: What to Eat
Colombian cuisine varies dramatically by region. Here’s what to seek out in each city on this itinerary:
- Bogotá – Ajiaco: The city’s signature dish. A thick, hearty soup made with three types of potato, chicken, guasca herbs, and cream. Order it anywhere in the city – it’s comfort food on a cold Andean day.
- Medellín – Bandeja Paisa: The ultimate Colombian meal. A massive plate containing red beans, chicharrón (fried pork belly), chorizo, fried egg, avocado, white rice, and a corn arepa. Locals eat it for lunch. Budget travelers note: it fills you up for the entire day.
- Coffee Region – Fresh coffee: This sounds obvious, but the coffee here tastes completely different from what you’ve had before. Order a tinto (black coffee) at a local finca (farm). It’s sweet, smooth, and nothing like supermarket Colombian coffee.
- Cartagena – Ceviche and cazuela de mariscos: The Caribbean coast brings incredible seafood. Fresh ceviche from street vendors is safe and delicious. The seafood stew (cazuela) with coconut milk is a revelation.
- Everywhere – Arepa: The Colombian arepa is thicker than its Venezuelan cousin and can be plain, stuffed with cheese, eggs, or meat. Breakfast everywhere. Each region has its own version.
Getting Around Colombia
Colombia is large. Overland buses between major cities exist but take many hours. Domestic flights are often worth the minor cost:
- Domestic airlines: VivaAir (budget), Wingo, and Avianca. Book early for fares as low as $20–$40. Check baggage allowances – budget airlines charge extra for checked bags.
- Getting around cities: Bogotá has the TransMilenio bus system (cheap but crowded). Medellín’s Metro and Metrocable gondola system is excellent and a must-ride. In Cartagena and Salento, walk or take tuk-tuks.
- Taxis and ridesharing: In all cities, use InDrive or Cabify instead of hailing street taxis. Uber operates in a gray area but generally works. Always agree on a price before getting in a metered taxi.
- Bogotá to Cartagena: Fly. The bus takes 20+ hours. Domestic flights take 1.5 hours and can cost under $40.
Things You’ll Wish Someone Had Told You
- Altitude in Bogotá: At 2,640m, Bogotá genuinely affects some people. Take it easy on day one, drink extra water, and avoid heavy exercise or excess alcohol the first night. Altitude sickness usually passes within 24 hours.
- Bogotá vs. Medellín weather: Bogotá is cool and often cloudy (12–18°C). Bring a jacket. Medellín is warm and perfect. Don’t expect tropical heat in the capital.
- “Don’t Look Down”: Colombian slang for an important safety tip. Don’t visibly use your phone on the street in busy areas – phone snatching from motorcycles is the most common form of petty crime. Use your phone in cafés or tucked away areas.
- Sunscreen in Cartagena: The Caribbean sun is intense. Locals start wearing sunscreen at age 2. You should too. Bring SPF 50+.
- Plastic bags: Colombia charges for plastic shopping bags. Bring a reusable bag or you’ll be buying small bags for every purchase.
- SIM cards: Buy a local SIM from Claro or Movistar at the airport on arrival. Data is extremely cheap (around $10 for 10GB) and having a local number makes using rideshare apps much easier. Most shops require your passport to activate.